Celeriac is ugly, and it isn't very popular. But, I discovered this year that it still has many redeeming qualities. The first one being that you can squeeze it between bigger plants in the garden, and still get a pretty good amount of vegetable from it. Its nice to know a few plants that can still thrive in the shadows of the larger, more demanding plants (like tomatoes.)
The next thing I like about it is that you can eat both the stalks (great for soup stock or stir fry) and the root. I like things that work double duty, and the FLAVOUR is incredible, so I think Celeriac (also called Celery Root) actually improves whatever it is your putting it in.
The biggest drawback is how hard it is to clean. Look at those roots! Because of the up-front labour required, it is easy to have mental resistance to cooking with Celeriac.
Overcome this mental resistance (and maybe all resistance) with a warm bath. And then grab a veggie brush and scrub away.
Celeriac is wonderful in soups and stews, but I wanted to try it in the starring role. So, I braised it in butter, olive oil and veggie stock, with thyme, rosemary and sage. Adding garlic and a few coffee beans for drama (inspired by Rene Redzepi of Noma.)
Once they were tender throughout they looked like little squid, so I drizzled them with lemon.
I served them cut in half and topped with black olives. With roasted potatoes and raw broccoli and turnip.
It was divine, the aromatic, savoury flavour got sweeter with braising, and it was melt in your mouth tender, even my two year old ate all of her little celery root. But not her potatoes....
I like meeting new vegetables like this one, not fussy (except for the cleaning) but strong enough to be either a great team player, or the headliner. And easily loved by everyone.
